• Indian Portraits from the 1950s and 1960s

    Between Chennai and Pondicherry is an area with an especially high proliferation of “junk stores.  I suppose the owners would prefer we’d call them antique shops – but there actually aren’t that many actual antiques, just lots of oddities and strange treasures, many of which are made to look old. In the back of one

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  • Impressions of Koyambedu

    Koyambedu Wholesale Market Complex is one of Asia’s largest perishable goods market complexes.  Spread over an area of 295 acres, the complex consists of more than 1,000 wholesale shops and 2,000 retail shops.  The market has two blocks for vegetable shops and one each for fruit and flower shops. In Phase II, a textile market, and in Phase III,

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  • Photographing Chennai’s Kids

    A number of different photographer groups in Chennai regularly organize photowalks – walks through various neighborhoods in Chennai. The potential photographic subjects will vary – sometimes it’s market vendors, or stately old buildings, still life, fishing villages. In certain situations, exercising your abilities as a photographer can be difficult, because – rather than you seeking

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  • Checking in with Rocky

    I recently had the opportunity to meet Rocky Braat, the subject of an amazing documentary called “Blood Brother,” winner of both the Audience and Grand Jury Prize at Sundance 2013.  The film tells the story of a disillusioned young American who goes to India to find meaning in his life and finds it at an

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  • Chennai: Textures

    I’ve posted before about Chennai’s endless walls and the fact that many of them get postered, painted, repainted and repostered.  This creates interesting textures; so much so, that one of my predecessors did an entire photographic exhibition on just that theme – and sold many of his photos to boot! When I heard about that,

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  • Chennai: Grit and Grain

    In Namibia, photography was all about long lenses, tripods, “the golden hour”, and finding the right guide. Since moving to Chennai, a large city in India, the lenses have gotten much shorter, shooting is sometimes instinctive; and sweeping landscapes have made way for the grit and grime of everyday human life, toil, and aging buildings.

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  • Badrian Street and the Flower Market

    Badrian Street or “Budirian Street” as it is painted on the street sign, is the site of Chennai’s old wholesale flower market. While technically, the vendors in what is commonly known as “poo-k-kadai,” sell “wholesale”, their typical clients are ladies who buy less than a kilogram of flowers, typically to be woven into garlands using banana

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  • Goa is for the Birds – Literally

    Just north of Panaji, Goa’s “small but spritely” capital, where the Mapusa and Mandovi Rivers meet, is what appears to be an island – Chorao Island – which has 11,000 inhabitants, and whose western end is a 1.8 square kilometer mangrove forest known as the Dr. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. Looking at the map, it

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  • Vintage Camera Test: No 2 Hawkeye Model C Anniversary Edition

    This week’s vintage camera test is an interesting one (yes, but aren’t they all?), despite its rather long name.  Waaaay back in the late 1880s, a small company called the Boston Camera Company introduced a model called the “Hawk-Eye” Detective camera.  The Hawk-Eye Detective camera was unique in 1888 because it enclosed all of the

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  • Documenting the Dhobis

    British soldiers may know the terms “doing your dhobi” (laundry) and “dhobi dust” (detergent) – but they may not be aware of these terms’ origins. A photographer friend recently spent several hours negotiating, on behalf of a small group of photographers, entry into a local “dhobi khana” or “dhobi ghat” – i.e. a community where

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  • Mylapore’s Annual Kolam Contest

    When I first arrived in southern India, I blogged about the “kolams” made by millions of women in India every day.  So it turns out this is also a competitive sport of sorts! Over the last four days, the Mylapore Festival has been ongoing, and one of its main attractions has been the kolam contest. [side

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  • Hanging Around in Hyderabad (Post #3)

    For my third and final post on our trip to Hyderabad, I’m sharing a roll of Tri-X 400 film (black and white) I shot with my Ricoh Super Kr-5 II, a camera that’s barely vintage, having been manufactured in the mid-1990s. And, amazingly, for a roll of 36 photos, every single shot came out in

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  • Hanging Around in Hyderabad (2nd Post)

    A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to spend a week working in Hyderabad, a city of 7 or so million in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh (which is in the process of splitting into two states – but that is another story).  During my work week, I had little to no time

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  • Shooting with the Ansco Anscoflex

    A couple of days ago, I posted about some “found film” that had come from a 1950s Ansco Anscoflex.  I had originally bid on an unidentified roll of film on eBay, and when I found out that the seller was also offering the camera on which the roll had been found for sale, I bought

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  • Photography Tips: Kanchipuram, India – the “City of One Thousand Temples”

    We recently had the opportunity to visit Kanchipuram, a city about 70 km from Chennai.  Nicknamed “The City of Thousand Temples”, the city may well have temples approaching that number – we didn’t count.  Many of them are historically and architecturally significant, and the temples have made the city a major pilgrim destination, as it

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  • Photowalk in Georgetown (Chennai, India): the Flower Market

    Third in a series of posts about a photowalk taken in northern Chennai, in a section of town called Georgetown. I’ve mentioned a few times on this blog that there are people – mainly older women – all over Chennai who make a living by stringing together flowers and selling them for about a dollar

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  • Photowalk in Georgetown (Chennai, India): Poses

    This is the second in a multi-part series about a recent photowalk in Georgetown, one of the most dense parts of Chennai, and virtually the only area to retain its colonial identifier. In a couple of days I hope to also post about the flower market, and the colorful photography opportunities it offered. But first

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  • Photowalk: Chintadripet

    Chintadripet is a community contained within a bow of the Cooum (or Kouvam) River in the center of Chennai.  Though I have no idea what it means, the community was once called Chinna Thari pettai due to its history as a weaving community, eventually shortened to Chintadripet.  Today it is home to “Richie Street”, where

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  • Going to Goa: Spotted at the Beach

    During our trip to Goa, we took a trip to Palolem Beach, locally considered the most beautiful beach in Goa, and the setting for the opening scenes of the movie The Bourne Supremacy.  Luckily we were there before the tourist season, which means there was space to walk along the beach as vendors worked diligently

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  • Going to Goa: Sights on the Streets

    If you ever find yourself planning a vacation in Goa, it’s pretty easy to hire a local driver to get you around. For foreigners, the temptation is to just rent a car and save money, but hiring a car plus driver is actually pretty inexpensive – plus you get someone who can navigate the traffic

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  • Going to Goa: On the Beach

    Sharing a few photos from our recent trip to Goa, a former Portuguese colony in west/south India.  One of the things tourists love about the beaches here is how clean they are.  Whether it’s the currents, the population size or some other reason, we can definitely say there is a huge difference between what we

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  • Chennai Photowalk Part 2: Streets at Night

    It seems strange to think that, after 2 months living in this city, we haven’t really been out at night.  I’ve been out very early and there are a surprising number of people up and about – this is the time when the trucks are unloaded bringing new stock to the shops.  But in the

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  • Passing Out in India (It’s Not What You Think)

    I had the honor and pleasure of attending the Passing Out Parade at Chennai’s Officers’ Training Academy (OTA).  To “pass out” of a military academy means, in a number of countries, to graduate, or move on.  In the case of this particular passing out parade, 350 graduates went from being cadets, to being junior officers

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  • Ganesha Chaturthi, Chennai Style (Part 2: Video)

    Yesterday I explained a bit about the festival currently ongoing in Chennai (and across India) – Ganesha Chaturthi – and posted some photos. It’s hard to really capture the atmosphere of the event with photos only – a video in this case is much more helpful.  After watching this video, if you think this is

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  • At a South Indian Wedding

    We had a unique opportunity to attend a South Indian wedding reception the other night.  And I knew it would be an excellent photo-op, so I brought along my Ricoh with flash and a couple of rolls of film! As I understand it, a wedding in India used to last several days, but for practical

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