Just Like Riding a Bike

Sometimes it’s easy to take things for granted.  Like learning how to ride a bike.  Among other things, we teach sports at the Resource Center, an after-school program for kids under age 14, at the Jakob Marengo School in Katutura, the poor and predominantly black township in the northern edge of Windhoek, Namibia.

Usually we get about 30 kids, but during holiday periods many of the children return to “the village” to spend time with their extended families.  So we only get a handful that show up at the Resource Center.  Whereas we would normally organize a game of soccer, or relay races, or some sort of game, when there are just a few kids we have an opportunity to do something different.  Like teach the kids how to ride a bike.

The vast majority of these kids will never own a bike.  But like the saying goes, once you learn, you never forget.  So we spent an afternoon naming all the different parts of the bicycle I borrowed from a colleague, talking about the importance of bright and/or reflective clothing and helmets, and a bit about how to ride safely (on the left, hand signals, etc).  And then the kids took turns riding around the schoolyard, with me running behind.  Two hours later, they were riding like old pros.  And I got to relive the experience of teaching kids how to ride a bike.

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US Army in Afghanistan Parodies “Call Me Maybe”

Here’s the latest effort by troops deployed overseas to blow off a little steam and connect with friends and family back home.  Some may feel it’s inappropriate – but you have to come up with things like this to stay sane sometimes.

This is their description:

A cover of “Call Me Maybe” performed by US Army Infantry Soldiers in Kunar Province, Afghanistan. Original by Carly Rae Jepsen. Directed, filmed, and edited by the troops as a morale boost for our Soldiers here and our families/FRG back home. See you in just a few more months, and thanks for all your support!

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Photographing Victoria Falls

So you go to one of the most spectacular views in the world and you figure the photography is going to be child’s play – just hold the camera up in the right general direction and shoot.  Not so in Victoria Falls.  This is not for the lack of spots and sights.  It’s just impossible to capture the sheer grandeur of waterfalls over a mile wide, and twice as high as Niagara.  Second, the mist makes all your pictures look hazy.  Although we were there in so-called “dry season”, the rising mist creates a constant rainfall in some places – creating rainbows (and night “moonbows”) but also wreaking havoc on the clarity of your photos, not to mention the camera itself.  (Plastic bags for the cameras and electronics are a must, but the yellow slickers we saw some tourists wearing as they entered the park is probably overkill).  In some places, it’s like you’re trying to take a photo from inside a cloud.  I guess that’s why they also call Victoria Falls “Mosi-oa-Tunya – or the “Cloud that Thunders.”

One of the really cool things about the park on the Zimbabwe side (we didn’t explore the Zambia side at all – it’s $65 per visa!) is that they open and close at sunrise and sunset, respectively.  So that means you can show up at the gate at 630 am – which, at the time of year I visited (August) was 10 minutes or so before sunrise – and hightail it down to the far end where you can catch some spectacular yellow-orange tinged photos.  I paid the 20 bucks ($30 if you don’t live in the Southern African Development Community countries) to go for an early morning run, armed with my Flip camera (in a waterproof cover, of course – take something to protect it from the water, and shot the following video:

And of course no photo collection of Victoria Falls would be complete without a photo of the David Livingstone statue.  Who’s that?  Why, he discovered the Falls!  Yup, before he found them, nobody new they were there.  Not even the people who called them Mosi-oa-Tunya.

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Namibia: Strange Birds

Namibia has a number of different types of hornbills – some fairly common, but some a bit rarer.  This fellow below – a southern ground hornbill, was spotted casually walking through the forest toward the road we were on, with about 5-6 of his colleagues / family.  About the size of a small wild turkey, they were all absolutely silent and almost spooky as they steadily moved through the forest in search of food.  I didn’t realize until afterward that they were hornbills, as they are quite different from other types:

Then I also thought this was an interesting photo, spotted at a small tent camp:

I thought it was two hornbills of the same species – male and female – and it seemed sort of tragic because the one hornbill is caged, and the other is outside, frantically trying to get into the cage.  But it turns out that one is a southern red hornbill, and the other is a southern yellow hornbill – two different species.  The one inside the cage is there due to an injury, and we were horrified to discover that – for whatever reason – the one outside the cage is trying to kill it….

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Sony’s NEX-EA50 NXCam – interchangeable lens camcorder

This just-released promotional video highlights Sony’s latest interchangeable-lens video camcorder.  Once you get beyond the nonstandard English, it’s SHWEEET!  It’s due out in October, and unlike the typical still camera that “also takes good video” this is a professional grade camcorder that “also takes good stills”.  It’s got a 16 MP APS-C CMOS sensor along with a host of other features you’d normally expect to see on a good DSLR camera.

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Scenes from the Caprivi: Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge

There’s this cool new tent lodge “in the middle of nowhere” up in the Caprivi.  So named because it sits just along the edge of the national park of the same name (formerly known as Mamili), this cluster of luxury raised tents sits in the middle of the Kwando-Linyanti river system, a labyrinth of narrow channels winding through low grassy fields and reeds.   It’s wild country – a birder’s paradise where the likelihood of running into a much larger animal means you’ll get a “what to do if you encounter an elephant” briefing shortly after arrival.

The lodge is the outcome of the cooperative efforts of a handful of adventurous entrepreneurs and the Wupalo Conservancy, with the support and advice of a number of organizations, including the Millennium Challenge Account – Namibia, the World Wildlife Federation, and others.  They employ a talented staff from the local area that will make you feel welcome on arrival, brief you on the local wildlife and culture, serve you a sumptuous meal rivaling the best restaurants in Namibia, and even provide Namibian singing and dancing after dinner.

Dedicated to making a minimal footprint in the wilderness area, virtually everything is solar-powered.  There are no fences, which means that you are issued a radio and a flashlight prior to dusk, and wandering around on your own is strongly discouraged.  Because the elephants and hippos will wander right through the camp.  Hearing a lion roaring nearby at night is not uncommon.  This is Africa.

Getting there is a bit challenging but far from impossible.  From Kongola, you follow the C49, which is a packed earth road but in the process of being upgraded, for 70 kilometers.  Turn right at the sign, and then you can either park at the (secure) conservancy headquarters in the village and get picked up, or if you have a 4×4, drive the remaining 11 km to the camp.  The main challenge is at the beginning, but we managed in a fairly citified 4×4:

We were told we could either go through the river (2 feet deep at one point), or take the bridge.  “Keep moving in a low gear, and ignore the sounds you hear coming from beneath the car.”  We chose the bridge.

Once we got to the camp, proprietor Simone Micheletti insisted we take an abbreviated boat ride, despite technically having arrived too late for the day’s activities.  “To see what we may see.”  He has an encyclopedic knowledge of the local birds and wildlife, and identified the most obscure species before most of us managed to even spot them.  As the sun set, I tried my best to capture the feel of the local scenery, with the calm water reflecting a wide variety of trees, all made more dramatic by the light smoke in the air from a distant brush fire.

You can see some photos of the animals you can see (and we saw) on the lodge’s Facebook page or website.  We’ll just offer this photo of the tracks that covered the road for a good 5-6 kilometers of the dirt road on our way out of the area:

 

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Caprivi is for the Birds

Caprivi is that northeasternmost region in Namibia that looks so odd on a map.  I’m sure there is a really interesting historical reason dating from the colonial days for Caprivi being part of Namibia.  But for now it just sticks out there, too thin to really even qualify as a panhandle.  It borders Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana and it’s chock full of waterways and birds.  Check these out:

Behold the “black-crowned night heron”, above.  The night heron is a nocturnal hunter that roosts in trees along the river.  Or the lilac-breasted roller, below.  When it flies, you see a flash of brilliant blue and black stripes on its wings.

The hamerkop is an odd waterbird that builds a huge condo – er, nest.  And everywhere are “little bee eaters”, shown below.  One of the most common bee eaters, but still cool to watch.  And they do eat bees, apparently.

Then there’s this odd one – the magpie shrike.  Not to be confused with the crimson-breasted shrike, which I’ve seen in other parts of Namibia, but is usually difficult to catch on camera.

This natal spurfowl with chicks was hanging out in the Victoria Falls park, down by the viewing area where you can see the bungie jumpers on the bridge.  And below, a squacco heron we spotted in the marshes.Finally, saving the best for last, here’s a marabou stork settling down for the night, and a white-backed vulture.  There were hordes gathered around a freshly-killed buffalo.  Yet none of them had white backs….

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Scenes from the Kavango

The thing you notice about the Kavango region is the endlessly long, straight roads.  You expect it in Nebraska or Kansas, but somehow here the roads seem surprising.  The main road running east-west through this region bordering Namibia’s northern border with Angola is well-maintained and passes village after village of thatched huts, reed fences, yellow grass, cows, and occasional goats and donkeys.  Near every village someone is flagging you down, hoping you’ll stop and give them a ride.

Occasionally a sign will appear to remind you why you need to stay alert on these roads.  Running into a cow or donkey (the latter have a habit of sleeping on the road) can drastically shorten your vacation.  Running into an elephant is a whole different story.

Radiating from the main road every so often are packed earth roads, frequently with signs asking you to limit your speed to 100 kilometers per hour – in fact 60-70 kph is probably the best you can do between villages.  Kids wave as you pass, and either kids, or women in bright dresses seem to be forever carrying things up and down the road.  The most common item being carried is a container filled with water.  The men can usually be seen working in the village – you’ll sometimes spot men carrying a load, but usually it’s a younger guy walking with a girl he’s got his eye on.

Another scene that repeats indefinitely is the brush fire.  Coming from the States, you think of the forest fires that can devastate acre after acre in a flash – yet here everyone seems unconcerned, and the brush fires seem much more orderly.  Which is a good thing, because I didn’t see any fire trucks, and it’s tough to put out a fire one 5 liter jug of water at a time.

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My Entries in FVAP.gov’s Video Contest

I decided to go out on a limb and enter another video contest after a long break. FVAP.gov, the federal absentee voting site, is hosting a contest wherein people can win $1,000 in five different categories. Unfortunately (but fortunately for me) it doesn’t seem to be too well publicized. And it’s one of the few contests these days that allow just about anyone to enter, regardless where you live or what citizenship you hold.

As an absentee voter myself, I took the opportunity to familiarize myself with the website – it really is easy, and I’ve got my ballot request printed out and ready to mail. My daughter furnished the idea for the video (we collaborate well on this sort of thing). But we needed monkey footage – where to get it?

This is where a local wildlife rehabilitation center came in handy. We went to Na/ankuse and explained our case, and Marlice was kind enough to offer us a deal that made sense for our budget and the purpose for which we were filming.  We went on a later afternoon with the youngest group of baboons and filmed for about 2 hours.  Note: although the setting sun makes for great filming, you have to get the angle right to make sure their faces are lit, without throwing your own shadow on them.  This takes some practice.

And then we had to find someone with a proper British accent.  And then with a bit of video editing magic and some time at the electric piano, viola – here it is.  We actually ended up making two entries out of the one video.
The main entry:


The shorter version:

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2012 Project Reason Video Contest Winners

Check out this year’s winners of the Project Reason video contest.  I worked on en entry for this a few years ago (when the contest first started and there was still a chance of winning) but now the entries have gotten too good for an amateur like me.  Winner gets $10,000!

More information on the contest at the Project Reason website.

The winning video:

CONFLICT from mirrorshade on Vimeo.

Second place winner:

 

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Documentary: Youngest Woman to Box in the Olympics

Meet 17 year-old Claressa “T-Rex” Shields, the youngest woman – and one of the first – to ever box in the Olympics.  Filmmakers Zakary Canepari, Drea Cooper, Sue Jaye Johnson and Bianca Darville have been collaborating to document Shields’s journey to the Olympic games, including London as we speak.  They have listed their project on Kickstarter and can use your support.  Although they just managed to reach their funding goal as I write this blog, they are seemingly operating on a shoestring budget.  Their trailer suggests this will be an inspiring story told in a compelling way.  Give it a look, and check out their Kickstarter page if you have a chance:

T-Rex Trailer

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Under the Namibian Sky (Time Lapse)

Namibia is truly one of the most amazing places for stargazing – sparse population, cloudless sky…

Here is a timelapse by a group of folks who spent 10 days (and nights) on a Namibian farm doing just that.  Add a bunch of time on a computer making this video.  I didn’t see a figure, but from what they did provide, I’m guessing about half a million still photos.

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Video: the Home of Good Hope

Every now and then I get an opportunity to take a break from filming bugs and upside down chins and silly stuff, to making a video with some social value.  I heard there was a need to show overseas donors a bit more about a cause they were supporting – a soup kitchen in Windhoek’s township, Katutura, that feeds nearly 400 kids two meals a day – and I jumped at the chance.  I hope I get an opportunity to do a few more of these – there are some amazing, selfless people here who are giving their time and energy when they themselves don’t have a whole lot more.

As far as the video editing aspect, the music was recorded by simply standing next to their neighbor’s house.  The walls are thin in a shantytown.

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Gruesome Vid: Mantis vs. Spider

This weekend, I opened the garage when a scurrying something caught my eye.  A 1 1/2 inch praying mantis running for cover but inadvertently volunteering to become the subject for my next video.  So here’s what a praying mantis does when confronted by a spider (warning, it’s a bit gruesome):

 After filming, I of course released him in a more suitable environment, which actually resulted in a much “happier” video.  Not a whole lot happens, but I think it’s a cool scene and I offer it in case someone wants to use it:

And finally, a video (much, much better than mine!) that inspired it all. It’s currently in the running for Vimeo’s annual video awards:

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Cheetahs and Leopards

Had the opportunity to do some filming of cheetahs and leopards (well, actually just one leopard) recently.  They make excellent photo and video subjects!  The first was an amazing opportunity at Okonjima & Africats, (about 2 hours north of Windhoek, Namibia) – I blogged about it once before – when we found 3 cheetahs lounging in the late afternoon sun, and the full moon rose behind them.  This is the video of the experience of tracking and discovering them.  They are collared, but this is a rehabilitation facility and these particular cheetahs are learning to hunt and survive, something they never had the opportunity to learn from their mother.

The second video is from Duesternbrook Safari Guest Farm – they have a few cheetahs and a leopard in captivity – also supposedly to try and eventually release them into the wild – and they take tourists in for the daily feedings.  The cheetahs behave, in my opinion, like dogs and appear quite tame, but the leopard is definitely still a wild animal, as he loses patience and starts to come at the (open) vehicle several times, and the driver uses the sound of the engine to scare him away.

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Behold the Grey Go-Away Bird

These guys always make me chuckle.  The first time I encountered a grey go-away bird – which is very common all over southern Africa – I was working in the back yard and was startled by its sound, which at the time sounded like a child saying “heeyyyyy…” from about 10 feet away.  They will answer when you call back using their sound – “kweehhhh” (or “go-away”).  This is what a group sounds like:  kwehhh

 

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Supermoon + cheetahs: nature goes out of her way to cooperate

Namibia really is an amazing place for photographers.  On this occasion, everything lined up, but as a photographer I was unfortunately not fully up to the task.  Still, some amazing photos.

The location: Okonjima / Africat, where two organizations collaborate on a 22,000 hectare plot of African bush to rehabilitate injured carnivores.  Africat has taken in nearly 1,000 large cats and released over 900 of them – to give you an idea of the scale.  Most of them go back where they came from, but some stay at Okonjima.  If I remember correctly, about 25 leopards, 4 cheetahs, 3 or 4 each spotted hyenas and wild dogs, and soon there will be lions.

Anyway, when you go to Okonjima, you can, for a very reasonable price, get welcomed in luxurious style and stay in a fantastic “view” room (which you’ll rarely see because there is so much to do!), and go on excursions to track the animals with your very own guide.  The cheetahs and a few of the leopards are collared (to monitor their rehabilitation), and the guides use radio tracking equipment to find them in the bush – and in the case of the cheetahs (the leopards are too shy), get pretty close to them on foot.

So this is what we were doing, and we happened upon the group of three cheetahs in the evening.  They were lying – as if posing – on top of a large mound of earth.  With the setting sun to our backs, this is indicative of some of the amazing photos we were able to shoot:

And then, something really special happened.  As the sun was setting in the west, giving us this great yellow light, the full moon rose in the east – directly behind the cheetahs!  To top things off, this was no ordinary moon – it was a “super moon” or perigee moon – about 14% nearer and 30% brighter than most full moons, due to the moon being nearer the earth than usual.  We had about 10 minutes to use the fading light to try and capture both the cheetahs and the moon with the right amount of exposure. While we did that, our guide took the opportunity to serve our “sundowner” drink.

These are only a few of the photos – WordPress and Namibian internet speeds don’t get along and the uploads kept timing out – but there are more photos at Photoshop.com.

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New Sony NEX-VG20 – low light test (wildlife at night – Onduruquea Reserve)

I was pretty nervous about the new camera I recently ordered – the Sony NEX-VG20 is an interchangeable-lens camcorder that boasts a sensor the size of most still cameras (23.4 X 15.6mm) – which, in addition to the versatility offered by the changeable lenses, apparently offers many features you don’t often see in a $2,000 camera.  But still, it’s $2,000 so you want to be sure.  And there are a variety of reviews out there – at both ends of the spectrum.  Most of the negative ones use terminology I don’t fully understand, and you get the feeling after reading a few that there are a lot of people out there just nitpicking every camera to death.  Basically I just want a camera that allows me to take the kinds of video and photos that I want to take, and this Sony seemed like the one.  My previous Sony camcorders all had low-light issues – mainly noise – which they tried to fix with a “night mode” that turned everything greenish.  So yeah I was pretty nervous.

So here is my first night video test.  Granted, it’s taken of wildlife standing under a floodlight; but I was standing pretty much in complete darkness.  The cool thing about this camera is that it allowed me to see things I couldn’t see with the naked eye (too dark) – and the on-board microphone also brought in sound I couldn’t hear while I was filming.  For this video, however, I attached a Rode videomic that picks up even more sound – sometimes a bit too much.  But I wanted the sounds of the animals, rather than the sounds from behind me, which the on-board surround mic would have given me.  This is a “guest farm” – a 15,000 hectare farm in central Namibia (near Omaruru) where they have provided a watering hole with a floodlight.

I’m very pleased with the result.  The only downside is that the sensitivity setting of the sensor results in some blurriness when the animals move quickly.  I suspect I’m going to have to break down and actually read the owner’s manual.

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Photographing a Leopard

Leopards make excellent photographic subjects, but they tend to stay hidden in the wild – when they’re not trying to EAT you.

Seriously, some subjects are best photographed in captivity or a controlled situation.  This particular leopard is in a pretty large pen, but he gets fed daily.  The experience can be unnerving -sitting in an open vehicle close enough to this animal that you can hear the sound of its feet hitting the ground when it jumps from a tree.  The caretaker throws small chunks of meat, which the leopard catches, until eventually it grows impatient and starts coming toward the caretaker.  Starting the engine makes him back off the first few times, but eventually the caretaker has to throw a ham-sized bone with meat, which the leopard takes back into the bush to enjoy in private.  Show’s over!

 

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Cat and Sunset

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21 Sunsets – a timelapse project

I love doing timelapses – especially of natural phenomena.  But I admit it can be a lot harder than it first appears – if you want to do it right.  But moving to Namibia and finding housing on a westward-facing hill – I knew that would be a great opportunity to hone my timelapse skills.

The first few months I lived here, I don’t think it rained once.  Not for like four months.  And hardly a cloud in the sky.  Still, the sunsets were pretty awesome.  But then, around December, as spring and the rainy season started to approach in Windhoek, it was like the evening sky had shifted into a whole different gear.  Every evening was amazing – in the afternoon it would start to cloud up, and then there would be a break near the horizon to let the sun peek through – the perfect setup for an amazing lightshow.  I told my friends and relatives back home we had pretty sunsets, and they were all, “oh, that’s nice, we have them too”.  And I said, “No, really – you don’t understand.”  And I thought to make it clear I would try and film as many consecutive sunsets as possible, to drive home the point, “No, really – every night here is an amazing sunset.”

So this is how this video came about – one of my most time-consuming projects, once you add everything up.  I used my iPad, which has an excellent timelapse app – and because it fits pretty much just one way in the railing, so that I got the same view every night.  Most of the missing nights in January, the sunsets were just as spectacular, but we were out.  In February the rains began in earnest, and the project really started to peter out.  I think you can see the clouds get thicker too – they are not as colorful at that point.  Then I thought it would be fun to see how I could combine multiple sunsets, and experimented a bit.  Here it is:

I think it turned out pretty good.  A few notes that may be of interest to other videographers.

  • During the first section, where 21 sunsets all blend into each other, it’s important to make sure the shots are all aligned.  So if you have an object that shows up in every shot – like the trees in my case – they should be in exactly the same place.  I had a millimeter here and there of variation.  If you don’t line them up, you get “jump cut” effects.  Which isn’t noticeable if you let the sunset run all the way through to darkness – but I found that didn’t look as good in the video.
  • To stretch the three sunsets across one screen, you have to uncheck the little box that maintains the ratio between width and height.  I don’t think all editing programs let you do that.
  • When you run 4 or 9 or 16 screens simultaneously, you don’t want to eyeball the size and placement.  Go into your editing parameters and write down the x and y coordinates, and make them all the same percentage of the original.  Otherwise it takes forever to get it right.
  • It takes a lot of processing power to run that many tracks simultaneously.  In the shot where there are 16 tracks running at the same time, every little edit took forever to make, while the computer churned away.
  • Remember to put your settings on manual – white balance, shutter speed, focus – whatever your camera does automatically, make it manual.  With the iPad it’s not as big a deal – in some ways the auto exposure gives you a longer timelapse because it increases the number of good frames you can grab when the sky is at its lightest and darkest – but you get some flicker.  On a regular camera it is much worse.

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What’s with these alien plants in my yard?

Moving to southern Africa has led me to discover all sorts of strange and bizarre plants that don’t behave the way my grade-school teachers taught me the way they ought to.

First, I thought this tree was dying last spring (i.e. October in the southern hemisphere), when all its leaves started falling off.  Then it started sprouting bright red flowers.  It eventually lost all of its leaves by early summer:

To the right, you can see the tree in Autumn.  I know – lush, green leaves.  Turns out this is Brachychiton acerifolius, a tree native to Australia that is all mixed up.

Then these cactus-like succulents started sprouting these giant red pods (ok, about 2 inches long – but the plant is only 3 inches high) which eventually opened into these foul-smelling 5-pointed flower the color of dried blood:

This hairy plant made outdoor barbecues much more pleasant for the next 4-5 days.  Turns out this is the “Carrion Plant” (one of several known as such) which emits the smell of rotting meet to attract flies for pollination.

Now we have this Aloe (?), which has sat quite unnoticed at the bottom of our yard – though it is pretty large – since we’ve been here.  But recently, it sent up a 20-foot stalk (I don’t think it took more than 3-4 days to shoot up that high!) which is now flowering.  Southern Africa is known for its varieties of Aloe, but I think what we may be dealing with here is Agave Americana, the “Century Plant” which lives 10 to 30 years, and flowers once at the end of its life.  Maybe we will plant some Carrion Flowers in its place?

I’m not going to try and figure THIS one out.  It’s not in my yard, either though.

 

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“One Day on Earth” Music Video

The “One Day on Earth” project, which collected video from all over the world on 11.11.11 (and also, by the way, on 10.10.10), has stitched all their footage together into a full-length film, which is to be screened at many venues worldwide on April 22 – Earth Day.  One of the benefits of contributing is that you also get access to everyone’s footage.

One Day on Earth the music video – by Cut Chemist from One Day on Earth on Vimeo.

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Best music for hanging out with giraffes

When you’re editing vacation videos, it’s always fun to come up with the best music – ideally one that conveys the right mood, maybe something that relates to the place you’re visiting.  But sometimes the best music to convey the mood is no music at all.  In this video, we managed to get awfully close to some giraffes, who appeared as interested in us as we were in them.  To convey the quiet, peaceful calm as these gentle giants foraged on acacia trees, all the while watching us with a wary eye, it seemed best to just use the sounds of surrounding nature.  I also let it run a bit long – there’s no major action.  Just hanging out with the giraffes.

[As a side note, it should be mentioned that giraffes, when cornered or startled, possess a kick powerful enough to kill a lion.  Lest you try and get even closer than we did.]

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Our Coast, Your Photo Contest Entries

The entire TAZM Pictures crew entered a local photo contest sponsored by the Windhoek newspaper, The Namibian, and Studio 77, a photography studio.  The contest was set up to raise awareness about the fragility of the Namibian coast, most of which is one or another national park (37% of Namibia consists of national parks).  You can see the finalists here.  One note worth mentioning is the “cell phone” category – hard to believe those were done with a phone, and it shows just how good mobile phones have gotten.  Check out our entries:

“T”:

“A”:

“Z”:

 

And, finally, photos by “M”:

Congrats to “Z” and “M” for getting one of each of their entries selected as finalists from over 600 entries.  Can you guess which ones?

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